Fiano di Avellino

The rules place the grape's likely home at Lapio, the ancient Apia, east of Avellino. In 1642 the friar Scipione Bella Bona wrote in his Ragguagli della città di Avellino that 'Apiano' wine, praised by ancient writers, was made there and across Avellino, 'corruptly called Afiano and Fiano', a name he linked to the bees (api) that eat the grapes. A note of 5 November 1592 to the Captain of Montefusco records Lapio growers refusing to pay a wine tax. The rules also cite an order in the register of Frederick II for Greco and Fiano, and an order by Charles II of Anjou for 1,600 Fiano vines to be planted near Manfredonia.

In 1882 Michele Carlucci, director of the Avellino wine school, published trials of separate Fiano vinification. After phylloxera the grape nearly vanished: in 1950 only 2 ha were in specialised vineyards and 53 ha mixed with other crops, and in 1970 17 ha; today more than 560 ha produce Fiano di Avellino. The DOC came in 1978 and the DOCG in 2003.

The zone covers 276 km² north of Avellino, partly inside the Partenio regional park. Its geology (Geological Survey sheet 185, Salerno) is varied. The central band, from Grottolella and Montefredane to Aiello del Sabato, has ochre volcanic ash and pumice of the second Phlegraean period, with palaeosols and loose pyroclastics, sometimes over clays and marly or sandy clays with gypsum. In the west, Sant'Angelo a Scala and Summonte have sandstones with marls; in the east, Lapio and Atripalda have the same ash over varicoloured clays, which alone form the ground at Montefalcione, Parolise and San Potito Ultra. The hills rise to about 600 m between the Monte Vergine-Avella and Terminio-Tuoro massifs.

Soils are young and clay-rich, up to 50% of the fine earth, often heavy, generally low in lime and rich in potassium and magnesium. The consortium also describes marl, limestone, sand and volcanic influences. Winters are cold, often with snow, and summers mild; rain just reaches 1,100 mm, over 70% of it in autumn and winter and about 6% in summer.

The rules name four favoured terroirs. Lapio gives structured wines of uncommon acidity and minerality, with marked aromas, often like mountain wines. Summonte, with soils hard to work, gives concentrated, powerful, fruity wines with little minerality. Montefredane, a clayey hill, brings out mineral notes and a proven longevity. On the sandy hills east of Avellino the wines show toasted hazelnut and a smoky character, and are ready in the medium term. Clay helps steady ripening and acidity in dry summers, and potassium and magnesium add aroma and structure. The rules sum up the wine by its acidity, finesse and aptitude for ageing; the consortium adds floral and fruit notes, nuttiness and freshness.

At least 85% Fiano is required, with Greco, Coda di Volpe and Trebbiano toscano up to 15% together. Only well-exposed hill vineyards qualify; damp, shaded valley floors are excluded. The still wine is straw yellow, with a pleasant, intense and fine nose and a dry, fresh, harmonious taste; the Riserva ages at least 12 months from 1 November of the harvest year. The Spumante must be made by refermentation in bottle (classic method), with at least 18 months in bottle from tirage, or 36 months for the Spumante Riserva. Labels may add the traditional mention Apianum, in type no larger than half that of the denomination.