Moldova

The national office (ONVV) records imprints of cultivated grape seeds on pottery from the Cucuteni-Trypillia culture, dated to the mid-4th millennium BC (Rusestii Noi) and the early 3rd millennium BC (Varvareuca). Greek colonies on the Black Sea from the 8th–7th centuries BC traded wine, and coins of Tyras from the 3rd–2nd centuries BC bear vines. From the 14th century princely documents mention vineyards, tithes on wine and exports to Russia and Poland; in 1499 Putna monastery owned 13.6 ha of vineyard. ONVV says winemaking declined under Ottoman rule and was banned until 1812. After 1812 German, Bulgarian, Gagauz, Greek, Armenian, Swiss and French settlers came; a fruit school founded in 1842 became the Bessarabian Winemaking College in 1891. By 1900 Bessarabia held 31% of the Russian Empire's vineyards. Oidium (1855), downy mildew (1884) and phylloxera (1886) nearly halved the area by 1910.

Codru, in the centre, has a temperate-continental climate with mild short winters, long warm summers and relatively little rain, averaging 9.0–9.5 °C. Its relief is cut by valleys and ravines; 79% of the area lies on slopes of 1–10°, and chernozems cover about 62%. Ștefan Vodă, in the south-east, covers about 10,000 ha along the Botna, the Nistru terraces and the South Moldavian Plain, with 450–550 mm of rain, 9.0–10.0 °C, 3,200–3,450 °C of active temperatures, 310–320 sunny days and heights of 7–291 m; loam and clay soils dominate, with Tertiary red deposits rich in iron at Purcari. Valul lui Traian, in the south, has 43,203 ha of vineyards in three subregions (the Bugeac Plain, the Tigheci Forests and the Prut terraces), at 5–311 m, with Black Sea breezes and chernozems on 78% of the land.

ONVV links each region to a style. It says Codru's soils and climate give excellent conditions for high-quality white wines and sparkling wines, with fresh, fruity and floral whites. Ștefan Vodă is described as renowned for red wines since ancient times, and ONVV credits the iron-rich red deposits at Purcari for superior wines. In Valul lui Traian, high insolation balanced by Black Sea breezes and the shade of the Tigheci Forests is said to favour red varieties, giving reds of more intense colour than elsewhere; the Tigheci subregion is called the most favourable for sparkling wine, and Trifești, Ciumai and Plopi for liqueur wines.

ONVV lists four PGIs. Codru, Ștefan Vodă and Valul lui Traian cover wine; Divin covers wine spirits made anywhere in the country. Each is managed by an association of producers. In Codru white varieties cover about 63% of the PGI area, and the predominant varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. In Ștefan Vodă black varieties cover about 57%, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Rară Neagră and Malbec predominant. In Valul lui Traian black varieties cover about 60%, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Saperavi and Fetească Neagră, and Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Muscat Ottonel among the whites. Among native varieties ONVV ranks Fetească Albă first by area, then Fetească Regală, Fetească Neagră and Rară Neagră (register of 30 December 2019). Newer local crossings include Viorica, Legenda and Riton.